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Infiniti G35 Brembo Brake Package Complete Brake Install

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2004 Infiniti G35 with Brembo Brake Package Complete Brake Install / Aftermarket Rotors


I will demonstrate how to replace the Brake Pads and Rotors on an Infiniti G35.

In this example I opted to purchase Brembo Rotors and EBC Ceramic brake pads for performance braking and reduced brake dust.

Tools and Supplies Required
Jack and lug nut wrench
Brake pads and rotors
22 mm wrench and Socket for Caliper Bolts
12 mm Wrench to remove the dowel on the front rotor
11 mm wrench to loosen the bleed screw
Torque Wrench
C-Clamp
Pliers
Hammer
Tubing and container to catch brake fluid
Rags to clean parts and hands
Brake fluid in the event you need to top off the reservoir
Breaker bar or extension pipe for ratchet wrench

Removing The Wheel

  1. Support the vehicle and secure the wheels to prevent the car from rolling.
  2. Lift the car slightly before loosening the lug nuts. This prevents the weight of the vehicle from being supported on the lug bolts. 
  3. Loosen the lug nuts in a star pattern to prevent uneven forces on the hub and wheel.
  4. Raise the car until the wheel is off the ground an inch or so using the jack.
  5. Remove the lug nuts and wheel.
  6. Support the car with a jack stand or blocks.
  7. This will be repeated at all 4 wheels.

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Removing the Brake pads

  1. Using pliers remove the cotter pins from the brake pad dowels.
  2. If required use the hammer and punch to push the dowel out.
  3. Using pliers pull the dowel out the remainder of the way ensuring you hold the anti chatter spring from flying off.
  4. Put the dowel pin and anti chatter spring off to the side for installation later.
  5. Remove the second dowel pin and place off to the side.
  6. Using pliers or pry tool push the brake pads apart slightly.
    1. This is done to allow the pads to slide over the lip that is on the rotor
  7. Using pliers pull the brake pads up and out of the caliper.
  8. This will be repeated at all 4 wheels.

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Removing the Front Calipers and Rotor

  1. Loosen and remove the bolts that hold the caliper in place.
    1. You may need to use a breaker bar to assist in loosening the bolts since these may be very tight
  2. Lift the caliper up and out of the way.
  3. Pull the Rotor off.
  4. Remove the 12 mm dowel bolt from the Rotor.
  5. This will be repeated for both front wheels.

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Removing the Rear Calipers and Rotor

  1. Loosen and remove the bolts that hold the caliper in place.
    1. You may need to use a breaker bar to assist in loosening the bolts since these may be very tight
  2. Lift the caliper up and out of the way.
  3. Using a hammer strike the center of the Rotor to loosen the Rotor from the center axle.
  4. Work your way around the Rotor while striking the opposing sides .
  5. Pull the Rotor off while working your way around striking the parameter.
  6. Once free completely remove the Rotor from the axle
  7. Remove the rubber plug from the parking brake adjusting hole.
  8. This will be repeated for both rear wheels.

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Displacing the Caliper Pucks

Note: This can be performed with Arc-Joint type pliers or a C-Clamp. In the video I use a combination of both.
Note: The Caliper pucks must be displaced to allow space for the new Brake Pads

  1. To make this easier I reattached the Caliper to the spindle with one bolt to hold the caliper in place.
  2. Using a C-Clamp, an old brake pad and a protective piece of metal clamp the C-Clamp over the outer puck.
  3. Tighten the C-Clamp enough to allow it to remain in place without depressing the puck.
  4. Attach the rubber hose with a waste reservoir to the bleed screw.
  5. Loosen the bleed screw 1/2 turn to allow the displaced Brake fluid a path out and not reverse through the anti-lock braking system.
    1. You do not want to force the fluid backward through the anti-lock braking system, this is why I use a waste reservoir
  6. Once the bleed screw is loose tighten the C-Clamp to displace the Caliper puck.
  7. While keeping the C-Clamp in place use pliers to displace the rear pucks.
  8. Once the pucks are flush with the Caliper tighten the bleed screw.
  9. Remove the tubing from the bleed screw being careful not to spill brake fluid on parts or the ground.
  10. Remove the C-Clamp.
  11. Wipe the Caliper with a rag to remove and residual brake fluid and dirt. Remove the bolt holding the Caliper in place, allow the caliper to gently hang.
  12. This will be repeated at all 4 wheels.

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Installing the Front Rotor and Caliper

Note: If using slotted or drilled rotors pay special attention to the direction of the slots or holes.
Rotor manufacturers will specify the direction of the slots or drilled rotors.
The Rotors I used are not directional but I chose to install them with them with a left to right orientation.
Ensure the direction is the same for each side

  1. Slide the Rotor over the lug bolts.
  2. Place the Caliper over the Rotor lining up the bold holes with the spindle.
  3. Insert the first bolt only finger tight.
  4. Insert the second bolt ensuring not to cross thread the bolt, finger tighten the bolt.
  5. Using a wrench snug the bolts.
  6. Using a Torque wrench tighten the Caliper Bolts to the specified torque.
    1. The torque specification can be found in a Chilton manual
  7. Double check the bolts to ensure they are both tight.
  8. Take the dowel bolt that was removed from the old Rotors and install it into the threaded bolt hole. (Front Rotors only)
  9. This will be repeated at all 4 wheels.

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Installing the Rear Rotor and Caliper


Note: If using slotted or drilled rotors pay special attention to the direction of the slots or holes.
Note: Before installing new Rotors be sure to inspect the parking brake pads. If these are excessively worn this is a great time to replace them.
Note: If the parking brake lever has excessive travel the parking brake pads can be adjusted through the adjuster hole in the Rotor.

  1. Rotor manufacturers will specify the direction of the slots or drilled rotors.
  2. The Rotors I used are not directional but I chose to install them with them with a left to right orientation.
    1. Ensure the direction is the same for each side
  3. Slide the Rotor over the lug bolts.
  4. Place the Caliper over the Rotor lining up the bold holes with the spindle.
  5. Insert the first bolt only finger tight.
  6. Insert the second bolt ensuring not to cross thread the bolt, finger tighten the bolt.
  7. Using a wrench snug the bolts.
  8. Using a Torque wrench tighten the Caliper Bolts to the specified torque.
    1. The torque specification can be found in a Chilton manual
  9. Double check the bolts to ensure they are both tight.
  10. Take the rubber plug from the old rotors and insert it into the parking brake adjusting hole.

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Installing Brake Pads


Note: If the anti squeal plates or paste has not been applied do this now. If adhesive plates are supplied place the pad face down, remove the protective coating from the plate and place the plate adhesive side down on the Brake pad. If using paste apply a thin even coat over the entire back side of the brake pad. DO NOT PUT THE PASTE ON THE FRICTION SIDE OF THE PAD

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  1. Sort the brake pads organizing the left and right sides.
  2. Most pads will have a wear tab one will be used on each side.
  3. The wear tab will be positioned so the rotation of the rotor is towards the tab
    1. Example: The Outer Right Rear Pad will have the tab on the left side of the pad while looking at it from the back side.
    2. Insert the pad without the wear tab on the back side of the Rotor.
    3. Insert the pad with the wear tab on the outer side of the caliper so it is visible from the side.
    4. The Front Pads displayed here did not use a wear tab.
    5. Some brands of Brake Pads will supply a wear tab that can be pressed onto the pad, do this before installation.
    6. If attaching the wear tab ensure you position it so the rotation of the rotor will contact the tab as expalined at step 3.
  4. Push the pads down until the holes line up to allow installation of the Brake pad dowels.
  5. Insert the first dowel pushing it completely in place.
  6. Insert the cotter pin.
  7. Place the anti-chatter spring under the first dowel.
  8. Push down on the anti-chatter spring and insert the second dowel pin pushing it completely into place.
  9. You may need to tap slightly with a hammer but excessive force is not required.
  10. Insert the cotter pin into the dowel pin.

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Installing the Wheel

Note: Double check all connections, bolts and your surrounding work area for any items you may have overlooked
  1. Place the wheel onto the lug bolts.
  2. Put all five lug nuts in place tightening to only a snug fit.
  3. Lower the car.
  4. Tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern.
  5. This star pattern should always be used when tightening anything with more then 2 bolts or nuts-
  6. Using the torque wrench tighten the lug nuts to the proper torque.
  7. If using the stock lug nut wrench, tighten the nut to a very firm torque.
The lug nuts should be checked after ~100 miles to ensure they are still tight as the nuts may loosen a bit once everything 'sets' in. If you do not have access to this information it can be found in a Service manual.

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